Day Five, Special Invitations

Day 5:- Thursday

Day 5 dawned early and began as usual. I’m feeling a little under the weather, sore throat, some body aches, stuffiness. Bought some local vitamin C yesterday and I think it’s helping, also some cold pills. We knew this would be a long day as the Lt from Gori invited to visit his city after class this day.

First, we concluded our presentations and then discussed the items listed above for future and follow up. Then, we conducted a little role playing on two guys at a squadron bar and one “coins” the other. This was a prelude to presenting coins to the entire class.

Meanwhile, V and N were working on arrangements for our trip to Gori. E, another Georgian, fluent in Geogian, Russian and English was to travel with us. At first I didn’t think this necessary, but later I would understand why.

E is a very interesting person. She is about 32 years old and appeared to come from a wealthy family. She revealed later on that she had a Russian nanny growing up, so R was actually her first language. She has (to me) an aristocratic air and I later learned that she was a classical pianist, but has had to let her piano go. Her father has passed away and she is responsible for herself and her Mother. We talked about “life getting in the way”

She has worked in embassy for about six years, translating for an Apache Indian group touring Georgia and for classical musicians. She wishes to continue her linguist pursuits with a study of Italian next.

She told me on the way to Gori that she has absolutely no respect for Stalin. She understands that her parents do respect him and that the people of Gori consider him a hero. She does not nor does she think she ever will.

We arrived in Gori, a relatively small Georgian town that seems quite poor. The Stalin museum in near the center of town. It is in only fair shape, needing cleaning and refurbishing. It costs 15 Lary to take the tour. Because Eka was with us, we went with a Georgian guide. There is much of historical interest in the museum and I finally got to see a copy of ISKRA by Lenin. After the museum, the tour takes you outside to go in Stalin’s personal train car. It is preserved exactly as it was when he used it. I sat at the desk that Joseph Stalin worked at in his bedroom!! It was very HOT outside and even more so in the car. Lastly, the house of Stalin’s birth is on this site. His family rented one room from the owners of the house (who lived in the other room). His dad worked as a cobbler in the basement.

Stalin was training as a priest in his junior high and high school years. He was a very accomplished writer and poet. His life changed after he read Marx and Engels works.

Our host for the day, Lt S, was very proud to have us visit his town. He pointed out that his high school was immediately across the street from the museum.

After the museum, we went to Gori castle. It is a very impressive structure, sitting high atop a hill in the center of town, very near a bend in the river.. One can see a long way in all directions, but particularly see avenues of approach up the mountain valleys an enemy would use. The Lt pointed out his Army HQs buildings to the NW of us on the road to Tskhinvali. He focused our gaze on some smoke rising in that direction and said that is where the Russian gate guards are and it is NOT a good idea for us to go there. I kept kiddingly saying that I wanted to go (kind of did, but now it would be a huge mess!).

E described an experience with a new driver from the embassy and some US military personnel. The driver didn’t know where he was going and before anyone realized where they were, they were approaching the Russian checkpoint. They quickly turned around and avoided an incident.

This is a good time to mention V. V is tremendously respected by US and Georgian personnel. If V says that’s the way it is, that IS the way it is. He is a very quiet and low profile man, but full of information and likes to talk once he gets to know you a little. He won’t usually start conversations, but he will engage when asked. We were heading back to the hotel one day and he turned down a side street. This street ended at a T intersection and a sign indicating it was a one way to the right. V looks at me and says, “that sign is for everyone but V” and he turned the opposite direction. They do this fairly regularly in Georgia. When we reached a narrow part of the street, one other driver (going the right way) blinked his lights at V. I commented that he obviously didn’t know the sign didn’t pertain to V. We laughed.

Now back to Gori: Then is was time for some refreshments (which means wine) and food. We were invited to a roadside restaurant on the way to Tskhinvali. At the closest point we were only 22-24 KMs from the Russian territory. The Russians say that the personnel in Ossetia and Abkhazia are only peacekeepers. The Georgians state they are no kidding Russians troops and the Georgians don’t like the fact that they are there.

As we drove along this road this day, I was amazed at where I was and what I was doing. Here I was, closer to Russian territory than I have EVER been. Everywhere we went we were noticed. I’m sure it was a huge event of pride for our Lt to bring the Americans to his town. The Georgian countryside had small fields opening on the left and right sides of the road. We came to a grove of trees and the restaurant was situated in amongst the trees. The mountains surrounding the valley Gori sits in stand majestically off on all sides.

He had it all arranged. A private room with his friend Katiya as our wait person. Initially it was only the Lt, Hector, E and myself. We were later joined by two LTCs, two Major, BTN deputy CC, G2, S2, etc. They were older; I thought closer to my age, but I think I was ten years senior to the oldest. This get together is very common and special for the Georgians. It is a time of careful words and sharing of thoughts and ideas on a level we do not achieve day to day, particularly in the US. A toastmaster will begin a series of toasts. They go on rather at length, then, there is much clinking of glasses and statements of Amen. There are certain toasts and a certain order to them. One does not have to drink the wine. I told them I had made a promise to God to not drink anymore and that was very much respected. It was important that my wine glass be filled and that I lift it up for the toasts. The food keeps coming the entire time. It is common and acceptable to have your full plate replaced with a clean one. There is/can be a lot of wasted food, but it is important to the experience.

It does not take one long to realize the importance, the significance of the supra. This is a tradition laid deep in the foundations of who these people are. Lt S made the first toasts until the other gentlemen arrived. He spoke of it now being possible for us to say we have good friends in Gori, Georgia and if we ever need to visit, to east, to drink, to hunt, to fish, it will all be taken care of.

When the other gentlemen arrived, Lt S passed the toasting responsibilities to the eldest man. He spoke eloquently of the friendships being formed, of hope for the future, of hope that Georgians have that their friendship with the United States will continue to develop. We shared comments of faith and family and talked of how the US has much to offer Georgia, but because their society and culture are so long-standing we have many things to learn from them.

There was concern that we had to leave early…we did, to another event. A supra can last into the early morning hours. We commented this day that this short period of time we had today would help to open the heavy doors to a prosperous and beneficial future for us all. It was really a tremendously rewarding and meaningful experience!

All of the talk and toasts and discussion was translated excellently by E. I then understood why it was so important to have her with us.

As we departed this day, there was a lingering in the entryway and in the parking lot. It’s incredible the sense of bonding I felt with these people already. I will always remember this time and think fondly of the Georgians and the day I participated in a supra with them, some 13 miles from a Russian checkpoint.

We shook hands and touched cheeks as is the Georgian custom. I was amazed that we had already achieved this level of familiarity; amazed and honored.

V won the race back to Tbilisi and we attended a going away reception for Matt’s wife that evening. He finishes his tour next month and she and Matt’s Mom are returning to the states next week. There were many military and embassy personnel in attendance, lots of languages being used. I’m wondering if we will be in Georgia within a couple of years?

As the evening passed, I realized that V and his daughter (age 13) and were in attendance at this event simply because we were. I further realized that it was up to me to determine when we had all had enough. It had been a very long day and everyone was tired. But the Georgians (and I’m sure part of this is duty to job and part of it is hospitality to us), would never think of complaining or leaving until we were ready to go. It’s honestly a little bit of a daunting realization. I circulated quickly amongst our group and determined everyone was very ready to go, so we said our good-byes and left.

They dropped us at the hotel. We bid farewell to E and V and his daughter and agreed to see V at 0200 for our ride to the airport.